On the road to Sells (Arizona)

This memorial marks a traffic death 

on the road to Sells.

On the road to Sells

Pamela O’Meara

 

The road to Sells begins in Tucson, AZ and heads about 60 miles southwest, crossing into the Tohono O’odham Indian reservation where Sells is located.

Open range is the norm along narrow two-lane Highway 86 and cotton fields dot the countryside. In the distance, mountains ring the area, including Kitt Peak, which has the most diverse collection of observatories in the world and the National Solar Observatory. Baboquivari Peak, the sacred mountain of the Tohono O’odham people, is just to the south. 

This memorial marks another
unfortunate traffic death.

But most noticeable are the many crosses and other memorials along the road marking deaths at those spots. The road has no shoulder and a reputation for many fatal accidents, often alcohol-related, though there is no drinking on the reservation itself. One memorial has three white wooden crosses, others are single crosses decorated with wreaths or colored streamers and flowers. One looks like a church icon and yet another elaborate one has a motorcycle wheel in front, suggesting a motorcycle accident. Many memorials are marked with stones circles. A few have fences around to keep cattle out.

Along the way a couple of stores are selling Indian art along with snack foods and simple meals but it was mostly just the Sonoran desert and thousands of saguaro cactus.



Mexican goldpoppies cover the ground.

Beds of Mexican goldpoppies provide a cheery yellow ground cover between the palo verde and mesquite trees, and prickly pear and cholla cactus on long stretches of the road, probably thanks to a recent rain. What looks like birds’ nests or Spanish moss but actually is mistletoe hangs in many trees.

Near the border patrol station, half a dozen cameras on tripods are pointed at the road. Four border patrol officers stood talking to two illegal detainees sitting on the ground wearing handcuffs. The area is a runway for illegals crossing the border.

Border Patrol cars are visible all along the way, and on the lane heading back to Tucson, they stop everyone driving through. We removed our sunglasses while the border patrol officer peered in the back of the car, checking for any unintended ‘”guests” and then waved us on.

Our destination in Sells was the Desert Rain Café, a non-profit project of the Indian community to promote traditional and healthy Tohono O’odham foods and support their education system. We went there for the delicious Thursday lunch special of tender prickly pear glazed pork ribs, brown tepary beans, a whole wheat tortilla and side salad of dark greens with pieces of apple and strawberries with a touch of cactus nectar.
 

Adjacent to the café, the Desert Rain Gallery sells high-quality Tohono O’odham baskets in assorted sizes, blankets, jewelry, dried food and books about these native people, who have lived in the Sonoran Desert for countless generations, their once-enormous nation artificially divided by the Mexican-American border.

The road to Sells can be lovely and dangerous, but as we left the reservation the many huge ancient saguaro cactus with their arms outstretched seemed to be waving goodbye.

Photos by Pamela O'Meara