July 20, 2014

Fly, fish and float at Lake of the Ozarks

For years, friends have been talking about their boating, fishing and wine tasting trips to the beautiful resort area of the Lake of the Ozarks in central Missouri, and I wanted to go, too. Finally, the timing was right this spring and off I went.
This colorful salad was featured at H. Toad’s Bar and Grill at Camden on the Lake Resort.
For a visual introduction to the area, I met up with pilot Corey Leuwerke from Lake Aviation Center. The first thing I apprehensively said as I climbed aboard his small plane was I might get air sick. He reassuringly said that after a couple of initial bumps, the flight would be smooth and I should be fine. But remembering two previous experiences, I made sure my barf bag was handy as we flew over the 92-mile-long lake in his little Cessna to see how the lake snaked back and forth instead of being round like most lakes. Leuwerke pointed out the dam that produced the lake and circled around the intriguing castle ruins we later visited.
The ride was fun and smooth just as he said, and I loved it.
The lake came into being in the late 1920s when a utility company built the Bagnell Dam to produce power, turning the Osage River into the new Lake of the Ozarks, the second-largest manmade lake in Missouri and a popular tourist destination for boating, fishing, golf and other summer water activities. The picturesque area attracts over 5 million visitors annually.
A wealthy Kansas City businessman chose a hilltop near Lake of the Oaarks to build a retreat
Lake of the Ozarks State Park at one end of the water offers miles of hiking and biking trails, quiet camping and a couple of beaches. The other side of the lake is lined with homes ranging from small to over almost $2 million, plus condos and hotels. Many homes are vacation rentals for all the people flocking there.
Out on the water
Our morning pontoon boat ride on the Aquatic Trail in the serene state park side of the lake featured turkey vultures circling the sky, a few great blue herons flying in and out and a bald eagle sitting on a log at the water’s edge.
Our guide, Cindy Hall from the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, said these birds migrated south from Minnesota and other Midwestern states for the winter and would soon be heading back. The white dogwood bushes and dark pink redbud trees were in full spring bloom on the hillsides and created a lovely backdrop as she talked about the rock formations on the bluffs and the history of the area.
The green leaves against the turquoise water are found in Ha Ha Tonka State Park.
Later, we met boat captain Jack Uxa of Jack’s Guide Service, and he took us fishing for bass and crappies. A mist of water sprayed up on us, and the wind blew our hair as we sped to one of his favorite spots where the bass were making their beds and getting ready to spawn. Uxa, who was a guide at Gunflint Lodge in northern Minnesota for three summers, has equipment for beginning anglers to professionals, and says fishing for bass and crappies goes on all year on the lake, and only paddlefish have a season.
Being out on the lake was so fun. I caught three crappies and one bass, and had many more bites. But since I’m a very inexperienced angler, I didn’t reel in fast enough, and most managed to wiggle off my hook. Before long we moved to another one of Uxa’s favorite spots. My fishing partner caught about seven or eight fish, including one chunky bass. We took lots of pictures of each other and our fishing guide took some for us. We even looked down the throat of a couple of fish and took photos of that. We laughed a lot and figured Jack probably thought we were a little crazy, but he made the trip fun for us novices.
Castle ruins and a romantic cave
Later on, we hiked up a hill to the castle ruins we first saw from the air. Over a century ago, a wealthy Kansas City businessman purchased 2,500 acres so he could build a European-style castle for his private retreat. Luck wasn’t with him, however. Construction began in 1905, but in 1906, he died in an auto crash. His sons completed the castle, but a fire in 1942 gutted the inside. Today the bare stone walls remain at the edge of a cliff - the stark and mysterious remnants of one man’s dream.
The state of Missouri purchased the property in 1978 and opened it to the public as Ha Ha Tonka State Park. Today the park occupies over 17,000 acres and has 85 miles of shoreline near Camdenton, one of the towns on Lake of the Ozarks. Near the base of the castle ruins, we had a lovely hike to one of the state’s largest natural springs.
Bridal Cave in Camdenton was extensive, beautiful and unexpectedly memorable. The varied rock formations were impressive, and one large, tall cave room was full of stalactites that look like organ pipes fit for a wedding.
Legend has it that an Osage Indian couple were the first to be married there in the early 1800s.
Since then, about 2,400 weddings have taken place, and friends on this trip renewed their wedding vows on their anniversary that day in a very touching ceremony that brought tears to my eyes. Then we celebrated with a champagne dinner complete with a wedding cake at the elegant Vine Restaurant and Art Gallery.
Like over 2,400 people before them, Susan and Steve Pollack renewed their wedding vows in the spectacular Bridal Cave near the Lake of the Ozarks.
Missouri is also known for its wineries, and people travel hundreds of miles to the Lake of the Ozarks to enjoy the area’s breathtaking beauty and regional wines. Golden Rock Winery offers wine tastings and a restaurant with delicious food. Seven Springs Winery sits atop a hill, so after a wine tasting, we sat on the patio sipping a full glass of wine, eating a light lunch and admiring the view.
Lake of the Ozarks likes to brag that it has more shoreline than California has on the Pacific Ocean, Hall says. I can see why people who enjoy water activities, golfing and hiking, and just being outside love the Lake of the Ozarks. It’s 558 miles from St. Paul and an easy side trip on the way to Branson.
The Willmore Lodge Museum and Visitors Center explains the history and construction of the dam and offers visitors information about the area.

For more information online about accomodations, activities, restaurants and shopping, go to www.funlake.com.
Pamela O’Meara can be reached at pomeara@lillienews.com.







June 29, 2014

Elkhart Lake and the Osthoff Resort


Elkhart Lake and the Osthoff Resort
By Pamela O’Meara

The four diamond Osthoff Resort in Elkhart Lake Wisconsin.
Water activities, beach chairs, flower gardens, a highly rated resort and a quaint village with good restaurants are featured in Elkhart, Lake Wisconsin, located between Milwaukee and Green Bay, Wisconsin.
I fell in love with the place after a previous visit and figured the Osthoff Resort right on Elkhart Lake would be a great place to take my family. So my two daughters, two granddaughters and I recently headed there for relaxation, water activities and good food.
The Four Diamond Osthoff is a white Victorian-style but modern structure rated one of the top resorts in the continental U. S. by Travel + Leisure Magazine last year and also one of America’s top lake resorts. It has a well-known spa and cooking school as well. Unfortunately, the cooking school wasn’t open while we were there during the week.

The Osthoff’s first-class condos are for rent on a daily basis. For our three days there, we had a full kitchen, dining and living rooms, patio overlooking the lake plus three bedrooms and two baths. It meant we could have enough space and flexibility to do group and individual activities and eat what we liked, often having delicious leftovers for breakfast – like pizza, beet and shrimp salad and a veggie sandwich – for me while granddaughters liked room service. We could have cooked our own meals from scratch, which would have been convenient if we had stayed longer.
The Off the Rail sandwich and coffee shop is an inviting place.
But we ate dinner at Otto’s Restaurant one night and picked up pizzas at the Lake Street Café another time. On our last night, we all chose food from different restaurants but ate together. A couple of us got carryout from Lola’s on the Lake in the Osthoff – a shrimp and pea pasta with homemade noodles and beet salad with shrimp -- one ordered a steak form Otto’s and the kids got from pizza from Three Guys and a Pizza Pie.
Two of us who are early risers walked a couple of blocks through the Osthoff gardens, along the lake and past the smaller Victorian Village and Siebken resorts to the little red Off the Rail sandwich and coffee shop for lattes or Americanos and muffins. The offbeat café serves delicious, homemade soups and sandwiches and shows a lot of character with its railroad theme since it sits right across from the old railroad station where, decades ago, visitors arrived from Chicago.
The edges of two water bicycles can be seen on Elkhart Lake.
On the sunniest day, the teens rented water bicycles while one daughter and I took a two-person recliner-style pedal bike and we all headed out to the middle of the lake and around a few homes. It was lovely being out on the water. Then we ate lunch on the Osthoff’s lake deck after the kids also make sand castles. In the evening we took a pontoon ride around the lake while our guide talked about famous homeowners, preservation of old boat houses and some history of the area. We followed that with a bonfire on the beach and roasted marshmallows to make s’mores – compliments of the Osthoff.
On all three days, my grandkids enjoyed swimming in the outdoor pool surrounded by pots of flowers while a couple of us adults sat nearby. They also went for a bike ride.
One really nice thing about the resort was the feeling of safety – that  teens could walk around or go to the pool or stop in a restaurant or gift shop on their own or walk around the grounds.
The swimming pool at the Osthoff Resort is surrounded by flowers.
On our last evening, we all gave ourselves facials and then we curled up on the sofa and chairs to watch a teen-style movie. My granddaughters were intrigued that I neither fell asleep -- my usual habit – nor got bored.
Our trip was a good bonding experience, full of good conversations, and made me appreciate my daughters and granddaughters all the more. We’re thinking about where we might go next.



Elkhart Lake is also the home of a famous Road America Raceway and host to NASCAR and cycling races.
For more information about the Osthoff Resort and Elkhart Lake, go to http://www.osthoff.com

Photos by: Pam O'Meara


April 12, 2014

Arches National Park is a ‘red rock wonderland’ says National Park Service

Arches National Park is a ‘red rock wonderland’ says National Park Service
By Pamela O’Meara

I can’t believe it took me so many years to visit Utah’s stunning national parks and monuments. A friend who had been there several times recently offered to take me on a whirlwind tour to most of them. It was too good an offer to turn down.
Each national park has something unique. One of my favorites is Arches National Park with its red outcroppings rising majestically, some with spectacular arches that Mother Nature carved into the red sandstone rocks. Located between Canyonlands National Park and Moab, Arches’ stunning scenery makes you pull out your camera at every turn in the road or on the walking trail.
Driving into the park, visitors see a rock formation nicknamed The Three Gossips, The organ, Double Arch, Courthouse Towers, Turret Arch, Cove Arch, Landscape Arch and Balanced Rock among some 2,000 arches and rock formations. The circle drive through the park has many viewing points where people can get out and hike to various spectacular arches and other red rocks.
My first stop and hike was to Cove Arch and then Double Arch and

Turret Arch, where many visitors from the U.S. and abroad were taking photos and admiring the scenery. I offered to take photos of a few people in exchange for photos of me by the arches.
Then starting the 1 ½ mile twisty hike uphill to Delicate Arch, I began to get scared of falling when the path got steeper and petered out so people were climbing on rocks. Unlike the others, I turned around, missing the spectacular, often photographed view from the top – the scenery through the arch. My rock-climbing friend who had sprinted
on ahead only to discover I wasn’t right behind, was surprised at my fear and couldn’t understand my anxiety. Along that trail, I stopped at the Wolfe Ranch to peek into the one-room cabin where the Wolfe family lived for a decade or two. Their remote ranch is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
At Sand Dune Arch, I squeezed through a narrow opening between tall red spires and to my amazement, I walked into what seemed like a cathedral with red rocks towering overhead, a big arch and red sand where kids were running around sliding. That
was the most unusual and beautiful single spot I saw in the park.
The Devil’s Garden Trail to Landscape Arch was very scenic, busy and not scary. I took photo after photo as I did throughout Arches. The trail was wide, smooth and comfortable enough to stand and gaze at the rock formations and twisted trees and open spaces.
There are many other trails as well for the younger, hardier set.
Visitors to Arches National Park will find campgrounds in and near the park or hotels in nearby Moab. Moab has great bicycling trails, some of which are paved. It’s also a popular place for four-wheelers and trucks with giant tires that can go on rough trails. And it’s popular with runners. My niece and nephew did a half marathon from Moab along Arches and Canyonlands a week after I was there and loved the area.
The surprise of the trip was oil and gas drilling outside the pristine Canyonlands and Arch
es national parks. Along with pump jacks and gas pipelines off the roads, oil tankers rumbled by on the roads, probably wearing them out. Some storage tanks were camouflaged with green paint to hide them from the view of visitors. I was appalled at the whole situation and wondered what we are doing to our environment.
But in spite of signs of gas and oil drilling outside, I urge everyone to visit to the amazing Arches National Park with its spectacular red rock outcroppings and arches. And while you are out there, visit Canyonlands, Bryce, and Zion as well.


Photos by Pam O'Meara





March 30, 2014

Magnificent Canyonlands Sculpted by Glaciers, Wind and Rain

Magnificent Canyonlands Sculpted by Glaciers, Wind and Rain





By Pamela O’Meara
No wonder John Wayne movies were filmed around the red rock formations in Monument Valley surrounding Goulding’s Lodge, an old trading post on the Navajo Reservation at the northern edge of Arizona. The scenery is fantastic, especially when the sun shines on the rock formations, intensifying the red color we viewed from the lodge.
After taking many sunrise photos, we headed north through Monument Valley to Natural Bridges National Monument and then Canyonlands National Park in Utah. About 250 miles later, we ended up in Moab, UT.
On the way, we drove up Moki Dugway, a dirt road with steep switchbacks leading up to a plateau going up 1,100 feet in three miles and overlooking the Valley of the Gods. It was a bit scary but the scenery was amazing. We also stopped at Natural Bridges National Monument and then continuing north, we passed the Mexican Hat rock formation and then stopped at Newspaper Rock, located in the southeast corner of Canyonlands and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There was a wall of petroglyphs – hundreds of black figures of humans and animals on a dark red sandstone cliff -- dating from BC to 1350 A.D., the sign said.
In the adjacent parking lot, a Navajo woman was selling necklaces she made with sterling silver and beads. She displayed them on the hood of her car, and I bought one with a turtle pendant, which she said would protect me from evil spirits.
The Colorado and Green rivers meet up in Canyonlands and eons ago helped form the deep valleys. It was hard to imagine the earth rising up to form mountains and the melting glaciers forming rivers that carve out enormous valleys.
Further north in Canyonlands by the visitors’ center, we talked to three young women who were getting ready for a bicycle trail ride 50 miles that day and 50 the next before they headed back home to Salt Lake City. A number of people were out hiking. Since I’m a bit of a scardy cat freaked out by fear of falling, we settled for a few somewhat flat walks among the piñon pine and juniper trees to look out over the canyon in several spots. At some lookouts, we saw the snow-covered LaSalle Mountains far in the background.
In one spot, several black cows stood along the road, hovering over another one that was hit by a car and killed during the previous night. They seemed to be grieving.
One disheartening surprise was the presence of cricket pumps and pump jacks drilling for oil, sometimes camouflaged in green, just outside the eastern and northern boundaries of the park. A park ranger said drilling has increased in the last five years. We saw a natural gas line being installed to reclaim the gas being burned off from the oil, and we saw tanker trucks on the road.
The ranger said it’s BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land and open lease by law so ranchers lease it for cattle just as oil companies lease the oil rights – and there are 128 leases for oil extraction. Potash is also under ground.
The drilling is controversial as evidenced by a front-page article I read in the Moab newspaper that night.
But in spite of the drilling just outside the park border, visitors like me can’t help but be overwhelmed by the stunning beauty of Canyonlands and hope the land won’t be damaged. The National Parks Conservation Association strives to protect this land amazing land.
The big problem on a trip like this is that taking one photo or even 10 or a panorama just cannot capture the beauty and immensity of the canyons and mountain croppings and colors in the rocks.

Photos by Pamela O'Meara

March 9, 2014

Saguaros stand tall in National Park in Arizona


Saguaros stand tall in National Park in Arizona

Pamela O’Meara



Each time I’ve seen Saguaro cacti in Arizona, I’m reminded of soldiers standing at attention on hillsides or reaching toward the sky to worship the sun. Some Native American tribes may believe the saguaros are their dead ancestors.
I’ve heard people say the saguaros don’t grow any arms till age 75. In the meantime, birds peck holes in their bodies to make nests. Baby saguaros begin their lives from seeds growing in the shade of palo verde trees, which are called “nurse trees” for providing the in right growing conditions – shade, nutrients, protection from storms. The palo verde eventually die off, while saguaros slowly grow into giants, some eventually reaching 70 feet.
Saguaro National Park in Tucson, AZ is home to the giant cacti that are found only in the Sonoran Desert, including southwest Arizona and part of California and Mexico. This national park has districts on the east and west sides of Tucson with a visitor center at each side. The Tucson Mountains in the west and the Rincon Mountains in the east are full of these soldiers. Many other kinds of cacti, including barrel, cholla and prickly pear are abundant in the park.
President Herbert Hoover created the Saguaro National Monument in1933. In1994, Congress elevated it to a National Park.
The park has 150 miles of well-maintained hiking trails. While hiking in the backcountry in the summer is not advisable, the roads have plenty of pullouts for picture taking, and the outdoor Desert Museum adjacent to the western park offers plenty of saguaros up close. I’ve taken some great photos in this museum but for sunset photos, I drove into the park to watch the setting sun put a red glow onto the giant saguaros.
Photos By Pamela O'Meara

On the road from Tucson to Monument Valley


On the road from Tucson to Monument Valley

Pamela O’Meara
Goulding's Lodge.
Traveling from Tucson, AZ to Monument Valley, UT, I saw the most amazing scenery, which varied from the mountains in Tucson with saguaro cacti to flatter land to different mountain ranges with various colorful rock formations and through the Apache Reservation. Then my friend’s GPS showed a shortcut and suddenly, we were on dirt and gravel roads for hours through the Navajo and Hopi reservations, passing ranches with occasional horses or cows. We had to turn back a couple of times when the road nearly petered out.
We went past a couple of oil rigs and the Peabody coal mining operation. I picked up the Navajo Times and read that in the 1950s and ‘60s, the Navajos were aggressively making deals with uranium mining companies and made lots of money. Then they got lots of sores that turned out to be cancer.
Eventually a report was written about the dangers of uranium but written in English, which most Navajos couldn’t read then. The ones who could read ignored it the way people ignored the cancer-causing risks of smoking cigarettes back then.
Goulding's in Arizona
Nowadays, the tribe members are signing contracts –they do have legal advisors – for oil rights and expecting to make lots of money by drilling on their tribal lands. We saw some drilling rigs off the road.
The land formations and colors on the trip were pretty amazing. We got to Monument Valley before sunset, about two hours later than planned, due to the GPS fast route being way off.
We spent the night at Goulding’s Lodge, once an old trading post, nestled right at the bottom of a huge red rock formation, with other formations visible from the patio. Many John Wayne movies once were filmed there, Visitors can take four-wheel drive tours though this land or camp in the area. In the dining room of this international destination, we could hear different languages being spoken.
Tomorrow we will tour Monument Valley and take lots of photos of this spectacular place.

Photos by Pam O'Meara

January 18, 2014

Pamplona Spain: following Hemingway’s footsteps

Pamplona Spain: following Hemingway’s footsteps

Pamela O'Meara
Balconies in Pamplona overlook the street where the bulls run.

My balcony at the Gran Hotel La Perla in Pamplona, Spain, overlooked a narrow street lined with 18th century yellow, blue, tan and pink buildings along the route of the running of the bulls during the July festival of Sanfermines. The run was immortalized in Ernest Hemingway's book, "The Sun Also Rises."
I was in Pamplona in September during San Fermin Txikito, a  smaller,
family-oriented festival similar to what Hemingway experienced minus the bulls. As we elbowed our way through the festival crowd in the narrow streets of the old city, we stayed close to our tour guide, José Luis Del Pra, an architect who is fluent in English. He caught up with the zampanzares -- people wearing giant brass bells on their backs – the gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads), and the groups of costumed dancers, musicians, and kids on their fathers' shoulders. The gigantes dressed in lace and satin and representing the mythical kings and queens of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, towered over everyone as they walked through the crowds.

Running of the bulls
Jose also walked us along the half-mile route of the running of the bulls, and took us to the Museo del Encierro  -- museum of the running of the bulls  -- where we learned the history of the event and watched a live video, reminescent of Hemingway’s story.
Hemingway, a foreign correspondent for the Toronto Star and living
in Paris, first visited Pamplona in 1923 to watch the running of the bulls, a throwback to
The zampanzares jiggle their hips to jangle the giant brass
bells on their back
medieval times when farmers drove their bulls to market.
“In the Sun Also Rises,” he wrote, "I went out on the balcony (of La Perla).... All the balconies were crowded with people. Suddenly a crowd came down the street. They were all running, packed close together. They passed along and up the street toward the bullring and behind them came more men running faster ... and then the bulls galloping, tossing their heads up and down. .... One man fell, rolled to the gutter, and lay quiet. The bulls went right on and did not notice him.... After lunch we went over to the Iruña."
Hemingway's book put Pamplona on the world map and turned the running of the bulls into an international event now attended by a million people a year. To honor Hemingway, a large stone statue of him overlooks the bull ring.
La Perla owner Rafael Moreno gave us a tour of Hemingway's room from which he watched the running of the bulls many times between 1923 and 1959. It still has his original furniture and copies of all of his books, for which he was awarded both the Pulitzer and Nobel prizes. In lower level of the hotel, La Cocina de Alex Múgica was a favorite place for Hemingway to eat and drink. Since then, La Perla has been updated to a five-star hotel with free wi fi.

Eating, drinking, fishing
In the evening, we went to Café Iruña, established in 1888, where a
life-size bronze-like statue of Hemingway greeted us from the corner of the bar and his photos were on every wall. We enjoyed wine and pintxos – small servings of- little sausages, calamari and ham sandwiches -- while we imagined Hemingway eating and drinking there with his expatriate friends.
Then we stopped at Café Bar Gaucho for pintxos like eel with tomato sauce and black olives on toast, a spinach and shrimp pastry and rosado wine from the Navarra region and at Restaurante Baserri. These pintxos may not what Hemingway and his buddies ate but they were colorful, delicious and unique.
Outside, a man on the street stopped us and showed us scars on his neck and abdomen where he was gored during the running with the bulls.
Back at la Plaza del Castillo, the main square of the old city, we sat
outside with a beer listening to the Nebari Quartet playing from the balcony of La Perla in memory of violinist and composer Pablo
Sarasate, whose music Hemingway would have heard there.
Earlier that day, we walked along the thick old fortress walls of the Citadel and stepped into
This statue of San Fermin, patron saint of Pamplona, is in the Church of San Saturnino.
the gothic Cathedral of Pamplona and the mysterious ancient churches of San Lorenzo and San Saturnino. We saw many pilgrims with the walking sticks and backpacks on the Camino de Santiago, which legend says was taken by St. James as he preached.
One day we headed northeast of Pamplona, the capital city of the Navarra region, and climbed to an outlook in the foothills of the Pyrenees to see the Irati River where Hemingway went fishing with his friends and also wrote about in “The Sun Also Rises.” We
stopped at the Hotel Burguete where he carved his name in the piano during his stay there on a fishing trip. With Excursiones Auñak, we drove through the Selva de Irati, the second largest beech and fir forest in Europe. It has scenic hiking trails that perhaps Hemingway enjoyed. We drove through small villages into the mountains where five-time Tour de France winner Miguel Indurain trained, and then along part of the Camino de Santiago, We stopped
The Irati River is where Hemingway wrote about in “The Sun Also Rises.”
at the ruins of an old munitions plant in Orbaitzeta. Unused for over a century, it now has leafy vegetation growing through crumbling in the iron and stone structure.
While Hemingway put Pamplona on the world map, and it’s fun to trace his footsteps, Pamplona and the Navarra are so much more than Hemingway. It’s the delicious local food, colorfully presented, the centuries of history, the varied landscape and friendly people as well.
Grapes and wine are featured at a wine tasting at Pagos de Araiz Winery near Olite.
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Palace and vineyards
With our Novotur guide Francisco Glaria Baines, we headed south of Pamplona past fields of sunflowers and corn to the Iglesia Fortaleza de Ujué, a well-preserved 13th century fortification perched on top of a hill and built to protect local citizens in war. When they were under siege, they stayed in the fortification, which contained a well, large stash of food and a church dating to the 12th century with a statue of Mary wearing armor and holding baby Jesus.  Inside the fortress in the bar of Meson Las Torres we enjoyed cortados (espresso with milk) and caramelized walnuts handmade by local ladies before our tour began.
Nearby, we went to the Royal Palace of Olite, one of the most interesting Gothic complexes in Europe and a National Monument. It was built for Charles lll of Navarra in the early 1400s, and Walt Disney filmed sleeping beauty there. Now in ruins, the palace once had modern amenities like running water, an ice house and a central heating system.
Part of the palace has been renovated and turned into the Olite Parador ­ one of 94 government-run hotels often located in historic buildings. This parador has wi fi for guests and a restaurant in a palace setting.
At the nearby Pagos de Araiz Winery, we learned the wine-making process, saw the owners’ art gallery with statues of the apostles and famous paintings, and finished our day by sampling wines from their modern vineyards.

SEE ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

For more information on Pamplona and the Navarra region:

Pamela O'Meara is a staff writer Lillie News. This story is reprinted with permission.